With abundant water, rich soils, and plenty of papaya, coconut, and java plum trees, Kalalau has provided refuge for many outcasts over the years. In 1893 several Hawaiians with leprosy moved their families to the valley to keep from being banished to the dreaded leper colony on Moloka'i. When the deputy sheriff of Waimea came to round up the sick ones, a well-known cowboy and crack shot named Ko'olau refused to go without his wife and son. The standoff lasted into the night, until shots rang out and the deputy fell dead. Hawaii's new provisional government, fresh from deposing Queen Lili'uokalani, feared an open revolt and sent the army after the cowboy. But Ko'olau evaded his pursuers in the cracks and crags of the valley, eventually dying there of his disease. "Ko'olau the Leper" became a modern folk hero of Hawaii. Decades later another group of social outcasts sought peace in the valley—young hippies who spent years living off the land and communing with nature until eventually they were rousted out by the law.

At a bend in the trail I meet one hiker of that generation and ask him if he'd been to Kalalau. "I was there in the 1960s," he said with a warm smile. Everybody ran around naked. But hey, it was the '60s!" When I finally reach the magical valley with its folded cliffs and sinuous beach, the vibe is more frat party than nudist retreat. Dozens of campers, some apparently long-term, are scattered among the trees behind the beach. A group of college kids have a boombox blaring, and a woman with bright red hair is shaving her legs in the valley's famous waterfall. Bags of garbage, old coolers, and discarded tents are strewed about the campsites and sea caves, waiting for work crews to haul them out by helicopter—the greatest expense for the cash-strapped park. "The challenge of managing Kalalau is its isolation, which is also its attraction," state parks administrator Dan Quinn told me later. "If we'd get more people carrying out what they carry in, it would be a better experience for everyone."

As I watch the sun melt into the sea, a passing shower uncorks a magnificent rainbow. How could humans trash such an earthly paradise? The fictional Shangri-la, as portrayed in James Hilton's 1933 novel Lost Horizon, was inspired by the Buddhist concept of Shambhala, a mythical place of peace and tranquillity reached by enlightened beings. backpack qr code acnlMaybe we aren't there yet.seoul backpack targus On my last day in Kalalau, however, I meet someone who seems well along the way. ecocity laptop backpackA young outlaw with a massive backpack bounds down the last stretch of trail as I'm starting the long climb out. zoolet backpack

He drops his burden at my feet, sprawls on the grass, and tells me his name is Eric. He's planning to stay for two months in a cave up the valley, foraging, meditating, and "getting centered" with the universe. "You go back up that valley and there are rock platforms, taro fields, sacred altars all the way up," he says. "It was a metropolis in there! padi laptop backpackIt's the land of the menehune, the ancient ones. backpack fairfield prep Eric is bright, articulate, and seems utterly at peace with himself and the world. joola backpackWe chat for a while, and then he picks up his 75-pound pack as if it were full of feathers and lopes down the trail, singing a joyful tune. "Enjoy your journey on planet Earth!" he shouts in parting. And for the rest of the day, I do.

Na Pali Coast (Kalalau) Trail is a 19.8 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Hanalei (Kauai), Hawaii that features a waterfall and is only recommended for very experienced adventurers. The trail offers a number of activity options and is accessible year-round. Dogs are also able to use this trail. The island of Kauai is called the Garden Isle for many reasons. Many of which will become apparent as you hike through the jungle on your way through the Na Pali coast. The hike begins at Ke'e beach, at the end of the road on Kauai's North shore. You immediately begin climbing up and old trail, build with paving stones, but somewhat slippery and crumbling. Long legs are a bonus here, as well as excellent grip on your hiking boots. The hike heads up and along the edge of the hills, very close to the ocean. There are great views of the Pacific here, as well as majestic jungle mountain views. The trail curves in and out of the many ridges that reach to the ocean, and then slowly works its way back down to Hanakapi'ai Beach, which is the halfway point (in!).

A good spot to cool off and relax, before heading inland for the next two miles. Head up the stream to the right, and follow the trail all the way to Hanakapi'ai falls. That's all there is! website emailed me asking for info about hiking the Kalalau trail. While I’m a bit put off by their attitude that hiking is just a cheap way to see Hawaii (“[the hikes] were as amazing as they were inexpensive“), I’m always glad to give out hiking information on this blog. Hopefully they will see the appeal of hiking to their readers and change their attitude–after all, hiking (and walking around) is the only way to see the real Hawaii. Update 1: I forgot to give the “official website” for the Kalalau trail from Hawaii State Parks. website does have a more eco-friendly page that lists several hiking and kayaking resources. Update 3: Several people have asked for more details about the trail, and I have responded at length in the comment section, so be sure to read all the comments.

It says “Hiking is the best way to get to the heart of Kauai, both in geography and spirit,” and I couldn’t agree more. Update 5: camping restrictions have changed, and single-night stop-over permits are now given for Hanakoa instead of Hanakapiai–see below. Q: What is the best time of year to do this hike? A: Usually in the late spring, (May and early June), after the rains mostly stop but before the ocean is calm enough to allow kayaking. During late-June and July, the weather is driest, but Kalalau is “crowded” with kayakers who overtake the beach and campground. August is still crowded and much more humid, making the hiking very uncomfortable. The rest of the year is hit-or-miss, with perfect weather separated by rainy periods. Q: Do most fit hikers planning to do the full 22 mile out and back hike take two days, camping one night at Kalalau Beach ? A: No, I think that is unrealistic. Only extremely fit people can go in and out in 2 days and still enjoy themselves (but they won’t enjoy Kalalau).

I know a tourist on a 2-day schedule who had to camp in the dark on the trail, and the next day sprinted to the top of the descent into Kalalau, saw the view, and turned around to hike out. Don’t let this happen to you. My ideal “short” schedule is 4 and a half days: Q: Are there designated camping spots at Kalalau Beach ? A: There is a designated camping area right next to the beach with fairly clear tent sites. Some tent sites overlooking the beach or waterfall are idyllic, but they are all available first-come, first served. There are many more campsites in the forest, 50-100 yards from the beach. There are a few secret spots too. Q: How many camping areas are there along the trail (I heard the one at Hanankapi’ai is closed)? A: There used to be permitted camping at Hanakapiai and Hanakoa. I’m fairly sure Hanakoa is closed indefinitely, and you wouldn’t want to camp there anyways because of the trash, pigs, mud and mosquitoes. I have not heard that Hanakapiai is closed, but it is very possible.

They have to close the campsites if the composting toilet is out of order, and that happens often with vandalism/retaliation. Again, there are some secret spots too, obviously non-permitted. Update July 2007: camping restrictions have changed, and permits are now given for Hanakoa instead of Hanakapiai. I had previously heard camping was restricted at Hanakoa to preserve the archeological sites (rock walls and terraces), but Hanakapiai was becoming so overused that the park managers decided its sites were now more at risk. Hanakoa is the more logical half-way point to camp, and people were camping there anyways, but I still find it to be too muddy, muggy, and buggy. Q: Can you briefly describe the physical landscape you’ll experience on this trail? A: The trail skirts the NW and W facing cliffs and valleys between the wet north shore and drier west-side of Kauai. The 11 mile (18km) trail was established by the Hawaiians centuries ago and follows ledges on the cliffs and dips down into 5 major valleys (including Kalalau) and numerous little gullies.

The ledges are usually plenty wide and vegetated, offering views up and down the coast as well as cooling sea breezes. During winter and early spring, it is common to spot whales in the ocean. The valleys are lush and humid, offering views of waterfalls and green mountains. You can often find edible fruit such as wild guava, lilikoi (passion fruit) and mountain apples (a tropical fruit not related to apples). The large valleys involve stream crossings, and most gullies have water for drinking after treatment. Near the end, you reach a crest, turn a corner and Kalalau Valley opens up before you, with near-vertical walls curving inland and around to the beach on the opposite side. Q: What would you say are the highlights of a Kalalau hike? A: If you mean highlights of the trail, it would be the views up and down the Na Pali coast (the cliffs) , the view 700 feet straight down from Space Rock, the views into some of the valleys including Kalalau itself, and the exhilaration of going down the last slope to the golden beach and waterfall.

If you mean highlights of the whole trip, it’s definitely being on a remote beach, surrounded by incredible beauty, exploring a semi-deserted valley, feeling like a hippie and skinny-dipping (technically illegal as well), and of course, the views. Beyond the phyiscal impression, there is a certain sacred awe at being in such a magnificent natural setting. I sometimes call it a Hawaiian cathedral, not just because of the towering cliffs on all sides, but because Kalalau epitomizes the natural balance between the Hawaiian culture and the physical world. Q: What fitness level and safety precautions would you recommend? A: I would recommend the Kalalau trail only to very fit and experienced backpackers, which I consider the ability to pack 40+ lbs 15 miles and 3000 feet uphill on the mainland. Note that the elevation gain for the Kalalau hike has been quoted anywhere from 2000 to 5000 feet each way, but I actually think it’s somewhere between 2200 and 2600. Regardless, the heat and humidity make it seem like much more.

You will need the usual equipment: hiking boots, hat, sunscreen, water treatment, etc. An internal frame pack is better because it won’t get caught on low branches and rocks. You should have a screened tent against the mosquitoes and a rain fly against the inevitable shower. You don’t need a sleeping bag, a fleece blanket or bedroll is enough. Hiking poles are useful for crossing streams and balancing heavy packs, but can be an inconvenience in the overgrown sections. The trail itself can be treacherous. One cliff-face around 7 miles has a very steep and impressive dropoff, one eroded section at 8 miles requires careful footing, and in some places the overgrown vegetation pushes you off the narrow trail or hides a dropoff. Only the first valley of Hanakapiai has a sandy beach in the summer, but swimming there is NEVER recommended. Swimming at Kalalau beach is possible but dangerous due to strong waves and rip currents. As the safety slogan says: “When in doubt, don’t go out.”

Some people pitch tents or sleep directly on the beach in the summer. While technically illegal if you’re not actively shore-casting, it is also very dangerous if the beach is not wide enough to stop the occasional rogue wave. All water from streams and waterfalls must be treated due to the Leptospirosis hazard. Boiling for several minitues is still the most effective; the bacteria can theoretically go through a 1 micron filter, so you should add cholrine drops to filtered water. Heavy rains are possible any time of year, making the trail muddy and slippery, making streams impassible, and sometimes causing erosion that physically cuts the trail. Never cross a flooded stream, people have been swept downstream and over waterfalls to their death. When the trail is impassible due to severe weather, you will be stuck overnight or longer in Kalalau or one of the wetter valleys. State agencies will perform helicopter evacuations after several days only if the trail is predicted to remain impassible.

Q: Any other comments you’d like to share? A: Kalalau is definitely a world-class hiking trail, though you wouldn’t know it from the way local agencies fail to maintain it. However, they still collect fees and enforce permits. There are permit quotas year-round, and the best summer weeks must sometimes be reserved a year ahead of time. For permit information and availabililty, call the State Parks at 808-274-3444 (8am-12 and 1-4pm locally). Recently, due to a crackdown on illegal camping, mostly by hippies who live off and on in the valley, rangers have been helicoptered in to check all permits. So do not assume you can get by without a permit because it is so remote. Finally, if you go, please preserve and protect the area as much as you can, avoiding erosion and keeping it clean for future hikers and future generations. , and I’ll try to answer your questions here. I originally wanted to give full hike descriptions for all our trails, so you wouldn’t have any questions left to ask, but I haven’t had time for writing that much.