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Entering inside a roadside establishment called Cafe Villanova, we set down our damp gear and occupied a table. The cafe had a cozy familial feel and was filled with the elderly who were sitting on mahogany bar stools with their grandchildren, drinking shots of strong espresso. It reminded me overwhelmingly of a Sunday morning at the Hungarian Community Centre back in Melbourne with my grandma. The scent of sugar powder sprinkled over a homemade pastry, the rich buzz of conversation drowning out the small portable radios and their early morning broadcasts, the crocheted white curtains keeping the warmth within, and the unmistakable essence of cinnamon. It was only after we had finished our food and were staring down at our empty plates sorrowfully, which the waiter came to collect, that we saw the real fairy godmother behind the cafe. I was shocked to see a fully equipped commercial kitchen with a Chef and Sous-Chef working miracles inside. The family feel of the cafe had fooled us entirely.

I have to say it is the best kept eating secret on the entire Camino del Norte, oops, have I just revealed it? Returning to the road, we met up with Hanya, a kind and jocular Polish woman we had met the night before amidst pasta boiling in the kitchen at Sobrado Dos Monxes. Our feet pounded the tar path in the same rhythm and our conversations stretched out across the acres of Galician fields. I suddenly understood what Hanya was saying. It was with a melancholic pang that I remembered that this was our last day on the Norte track. Tomorrow, our Camino path would converge with the more popular Frances and we would walk the final two days as one of a much bigger crowd. Our last daySurvivorThe Way Together with Hanya, we traced our way through the bustling city, backpacks of all shapes, colours and sizes occupying every street corner, their pilgrim owners sitting down to meals of foaming beer and plates of tapas. For us Norte pilgrims, who were accustomed to meagre Peregrino Menus and stealth camping if necessary, Arzua was like an exotic international metropolis, boasting hundreds of restaurants, shops and Albergues.

Selecting one from our online Eroski Guide, we arrived on the doorstep of the Albergue Via Lactea, that boasted all the qualities of a hotel for a pilgrim-friendly price: spacious rooms, extensive kitchen amenities, prime location and unlimited hot water- I Time Traveled Through London For My Birthday DAY 37: Where the Sun Meets the Sky select for SIZE XS refinement select for SIZE S refinement select for SIZE M refinement select for SIZE L refinement select for SIZE XL refinement select for SIZE XXL refinement select for SIZE 1 refinement select for SIZE 1.5 refinement select for SIZE 2 refinement select for SIZE 2.5 refinement more size options > SGD 15.20 - SGD 38.00 select for PRICE SGD 15.20 - SGD 38.00 refinement SGD 38.00 - SGD 75.90 select for PRICE SGD 38.00 - SGD 75.90 refinement SGD 75.90 - SGD 151.90 select for PRICE SGD 75.90 - SGD 151.90 refinement select for PRICE Over SGD 151.90 refinement