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It's happened to us all before—you go zipping down a rap line, get to the ledge, and grab the belay device to remove it from the rope, only to burn the crap out of your hand. Belay devices can get hot, but can they get hot enough to melt your rope, or maybe the sling you're using to anchor in with? This is the question that keeps Black Diamond's Content Manager, Jonathan "JT" Thesenga, constantly hovering around the QC lab, asking if we've determined whether or not a hyper-hot ATC could get him killed when rapping off a multi-pitch route. I answer with what every climber should know: you should always be clipped in with two independent slings, and use nylon if you're paranoid, since it has a higher melting temperature than Dyneema/Spectra/Dynex. But his questions got us thinking, so we decided to put a quick battery of tests together to get some real data to help put him at ease, and more importantly keep him out of the lab. Now I've never heard of a case where someone's hot belay device melted through the sling they were anchored in with, however, I have heard of the following:

However, I have never heard of a sling being burned through by a hot belay device. So given this, we ultimately decided that were trying to learn two things: Any of these tests will start with a few certain facts and assumptions: As in any QC Lab test, there are a lot of factors to consider. What kind of belay device? Rapping on what diameter of ropes? Single or double line rappels? How heavy is the person, with/without haul bags? Single or multiple raps? What material is the sling you are using to anchor yourself? is on the sling? The permutations and combinations are endless, and in order to get a general idea we had to narrow it down, make a few assumptions, and then finally perform a few quick tests. Ultimately we settled on four different tests to help us wrap our brains around this situation. however, we wanted to find out exactly when spit actually sizzles. Seeing as this is known as good, simple indicator of temperature, we decided toWe cooked belay devices in our environmental chamber in increments of 5 °C to try to determine when spit actually sizzles.

Knowing this, we could use 120 °C (248 °F) as a baseline for how "hot" is hot. TEST #1: How hot can we get a belay device? A few of the crack crew of Quality Engineers at BD spent a few hours out in the parking lot setting up a simulated rappel. Let's just say it involved 125 feet of several different rope diameters, a load cell, several belay devices, some thick gloves, an infrared thermometer... and a pickup truck. test setup was definitely not OSHA approved or recommended, but it did get us some good results. The idea was to drive the truck at a reasonable rate representing a high-speed rappel (125 feet in 10 seconds), as the belayer was keeping the pre-determined load on the load cell (representing different masses of climbers and/or haul bags combined). The chart below shows each rope/gear configuration and attained quite the range of temperatures with our simulated high-speed rappels, from a reasonable temperature of 133 °C (271 °F) for a 250-pound climber,

up to 256 °C (493 °F) for 400 pounds of a combined climber/haul-bag weight. Some of these temperatures do enter the danger zone when compared to the estimated melting temperature of UHMWPE, and even nylon, but let's remember this was a pretty extreme, not overly realistic test. TEST #2: How hot can we get a belay device? Given the range of values we obtained in the parking-lot test, we then headed to a local cliff, set up a 150-foot rap (unfortunately NOT free hanging) using a 10 mm cord, and had our lightest and "not-lightest" Quality Engineers rap the line. took a temperature reading at the bottom with our infrared thermometer. Each guy did two rappels—one at a moderate rate and one at a high-speed-Kamikaze-not-recommended This showed us two things: could have guessed both of these, but it's always nice to get some empirical evidence. These were single raps, however, and we were wondering if the belay device got progressively hotter as you continued to rappel, as one would while descending a multi-pitch route with multiple rappels, eventually

getting hot enough to burn through your anchoring UHMWPE sling (JT's biggest concern). For the sake of expediency, we rallied five of us to the same cliff at lunch one day and brought a fishing rod. Yes, a fishing rod. Each one of us zipped down the line at a reasonable/fast rate, took a temperature reading at the bottom, clipped the belay device onto the fishing line and reeled it back up to the top for the next guy to use. In our limited test, this shows that the belay device didn't really get progressively hotter, and we basically peaked out at about 135 °C. Check out the video below for a look at both Test #1 and Test #2: TEST #3: What temperature does a belay device need to be to melt through various tensioned polymers? This test shows that yes, with a tensioned sling, and pushing the belay device hard against the sling, it's possible to get it to cut but ONLY if the belay device is at high temperatures—higher than we could obtain in the field.

This also shows that the flat webbing and Kevlar cord could withstand higher temperatures than the 10mm Dynex, with the nylon supertape performing evenSo the fears of having a warm belay device just come in contact with a sling causing it to sever are starting to fade. TEST #4: At what temperature does a Dynex sling actually start to melt? Seeing as we weren't really having much luck melting slings, we decided to slowly increase the temperature on our oven until we could visibly see a Dynex sling start to melt. A few things to remember: We didn't really notice any visible signs of melting until the oven was stable at about 160 °C (320 °F): we let the sling cook for a while at 165 °C (329 °F), we decided to break it in the tensile tester and attained a result of 540lb (about 11% of the rating 22kN [4946 lb]). Better than we expected, actually, considering the melted mess that it was. As usual this is far from comprehensive. There are many more tests we could dream up and investigate, but what did we learn from our limited testing?